Nuinobe-dō
Complete Suit of Armour
Age: Edo period 17th century
Japan: Iron, copper, lacquer, silk, rawhide, gold
School: Unknown
Provenance: Private collection in Japan
Exhibition: LAPADA Fair London 2024
Overview: A complete suit of Samurai Armour dating from the early to mid Edo period constructed in the Nuinobe-dō style. The armour is also accompanied with a Jinbaori war coat.
Description
This piece serves as an excellent example of early to mid Edo-period armour crafted in the Nuinobe-dō style. During this era in Japan, armour was still being designed and constructed with the primary intent of functionality for warfare. This particular example exemplifies that purpose, showcasing a design that is not only artistically refined but also fully operational and battle-ready.
The cuirass is constructed in two sections (nimai), with the plates designed to resemble individual hon-nuinobe scales. However, this method of construction did not provide the same level of protection against spears and firearms as solid plate armor. To address this limitation, the lames were crafted to mimic the appearance of scales while actually being ita-mono, or solid plates, for enhanced durability.
This armour is assembled as a gusoku, meaning all its components—such as the cuirass, helmet, and other protective elements—are perfectly matched in lacing style, colour, and finish. Notably, the suit is slightly bespoke, as evidenced by the oversized middle section of the gessan skirt, which deviates from standard dimensions. Additionally, the use of non-standard braiding in a vibrant blue is striking. This shade of blue was traditionally paired with brown or red armour, but in this instance, it is set against the black mirror urushi lacquer, creating a highly vivid and unique effect.
Early Edo-period armours are simpler in design than those of the later Edo period, often they emphasised visual identification of the wearer from a distance. The combination of the bright blue accents and the imposing jinbaori war coat certainly achieves this purpose, commanding attention and projecting a bold presence on the battlefield.
The ko-gusoku elements, including the kote (armored sleeves), haidate (apron), and suneate (shin guards), are all matched in design and finish. The surface textile features an asa (hemp) lining in dark blue, adorned with gold-stencilled tombo (dragonflies), a motif symbolising agility and resilience.
The armour set is accompanied by a yoroi-bitsu (armour storage box, not photographed) and a yoroi-kake (armour stand).
Status: Available
The armour has undergone a professional restoration due to the deterioration of its original silk braid. To ensure accuracy and authenticity, samples of the original braid were sent to a specialised laboratory in Japan, where a replacement braid was crafted to match the original in both material and appearance. This process also provided an opportunity for the armour to be professionally cleaned and preserved. As a result, the restored armour is now in excellent condition and prepared to remain so for many years to come.
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